Kanyakumari 2007

Day One Saturday

Well the day started well, at 05:50 Phil was pulling up outside the studio to whisk me off to the station. All of 2 miles away. Although it wasn't cold, it was foggy. The mist lays in that valley at the best of times. Standing all alone on the platform by 06:05 it was like a ghost scene from some spooky film, the track disappearing into the fog. And then right on time it appeared like an apparition through the fog, first the lights and then the outline of the 06:18 to Charring Cross. As luck would have it the driver remembered to stop. Some years ago when friends where leaving from the same platform to go home to Tonbridge, the driver forgot to stop. You just can't get the staff nowadays. 

Arrived at Gatwick without delays and proceeded to the check in desk. I like Qatar Airways, as I approached the desk the security man spoke to the girl in charge and said, "get this man leg room" all the way through if you can do it I added. And she did. I also arranged to get the rest of the team seated together and then went through security (a little hold up but not too long). I soon took up position at the designated spot, Habitat shirt, Habitat hat, standing out like a beacon amongst the little folk.

I found 4 of the team already there and the rest followed soon after. Following the introductions and a short chat they all wanted to disappear in different directions for coffee and breakfast and shopping etc. Poor little Enya (18 year old Irish student) Not only did she not get her passport and Visa until just hours before she was due to fly out of Ireland bound for Gatwick (panic, panic) but she had to spend the night in Gatwick airport sleeping on a bench. I must say she looked fine on it (not the bench that is, you know what I mean). I arranged to meet them at the gate and I then shot off to the VIP lounge. (I kept that one a secret). 

After my VIP refreshments I met up with all bar two of the team at the gate. Everyone on board except Adrian & son Geoffrey so I waited. They eventually arrived but did not get through the check desk as it appeared that Geoffrey had lost his ticket. After a complete strip down of his hand luggage, the girl at the desk decided she actually had it in her hand, what did I say about can't get the staff nowadays. Panic over we were all on board and a pleasant and uneventful flight was had by all. 

I had a talker next to me (hell, just what you don't need) but he soon fell asleep as he had left Houston the previous day, woke up on landing, (a blessing). So here we are at Doha, it's 19:00 hrs UK time 21:00 

On stepping off the plane it was like being hit with the oven door and the fan blowing at full throttle. The team have dispersed around the airport which has changed dramatically since last year. It is about 10 times the size and very modern. And I told the team to expect a poky little place with no seating. What kind of leader am I? Oh yes and you guessed it, I'm in the VIP lounge. 4 hours on a leather sofa with free coffee and snacks and "wifi" to boot. That privilege card is worth every penny on these long haul flights. 

The flight out is at 00:30 and then about 4 hours to the destination. You thought I was going to spell it then, I can't even pronounce it let alone spell it. So I will just sit here and suffer the excellent service until the flight is due. 

Day Two Sunday

Arrived at Thiruvananthapuram airport, Trhivanthrum for short. Met Mcloud as arranged and made the two hour journey by bus to the hotel. Oh yes I remember now what the driving was like in Sri Lanka. It certainly is no different here, in fact possibly worse as it is more densely populated. Risk assess the bus and weigh up the driver, that's OK but what about everyone else on the road.. 

We arrived safely as I new we would, and to a pleasant surprise. Air con and a swimming pool, Habitat are spoiling us this time.

Lunch, chill, in country orientation, dinner, crash out and catch up on lost sleep. We are 4 ½ hours ahead of UK time whatever that is. Sleep is calling.........................

Venture into Habitat GB 2007

As you know, I posted the last two trips out of order. So Costa Rica was my third trip as a team member. I already had Nicaragua and Portugal booked for 2008 because they were being lead by the inimitable Mr Terry (Matao) Mattson my very good friend. But at this point I wanted to lead my own team and try to extend the good work being done by other leaders within HfH.

To this end I approached HfH International in the USA and explained what I wanted to do. I was told that maybe I should approach HfH GB as I am based in the UK. Even after all the time I had spent on HfH projects and trawling through their web site. I did not know HfH GB existed. I had never heard of them in the UK. If you mention Habitat here, people immediately think of the furniture store of the same name.

So after locating the GB arm of HfH, I applied to become a team leader with them. Their mode of operandi is different to that of HfH International. They only have about 6 open trips a year, no team leader involvement in creating the team. The trip is sold as a package and the team leader is no more than a tour rep, with less responsibility. That said. They do a great job. The projects are the same as HfH I projects, the teams still work their socks off to complete the task. And they do a great job. For me, I preferred the International way. So much more involvement, not only in putting the team together but also choosing a destination, working with the in country affiliate to put the project together. So much more rewarding and I believe a better experience for the team members.

But that said, I did my training and became a team leader for HfH GB. I was initially offered a team to Ethiopia.  Great I thought, and accepted. As I started to get excited about Ethiopia and began researching the country, HfH GB changed their mind and offered me India. Ok so that's fine I thought and waited just in case they changed their mind again.

They didn't, and that is how I took my first trip into the depths of India. In doing so, I fell in love with the country and it's people.(for that I have to thank them) Not quite so the organisation of HfH GB. and that was the first and last trip I was involved in for them. To summarise, I was not sure some of the people who took part in the trip actually knew much about Habitat or it's ethos, or in one case why they were even there. But in every team there are a few people who shine through. One of these team members has returned on one of my Projects since, and is currently booked on another in 2013. He had previously been on another trip with HfH GB and certainly understood why he was there. A great guy and a pleasure to have on any of my trips. Another completely surprised me. At the time I thought he was quite disappointed with the trip but I now believe he and others were swept along on the misguided thoughts and opinions of one female member of the team. I was obviously wrong about him because he became a team leader for HfH GB  and continues to lead trips when they are offered. In fact it was only one team member who caused the problems that disrupted the team as a whole and maybe I was not yet experienced enough to deal with it. But I soon learnt. 

Upon returning from India, I approached HfH International and explained why I wanted to work with them and not GB. Fortunately  they understood my reasoning and my next stop was Chicago for team leader training International style. But I am jumping the gun a bit here. It is still 2007 and I am heading for Kanyakumari in Tamil Nadu Southern India.

Stay tuned for Kanyakumari 2007

Sri Lanka part two (day 5 to 14)

Day Five

I have never worked so hard in such heat in my life. 100+ in the shade. And we were not in the shade. All morning Patrick and I sifted sand for the mortar. All afternoon we dug up earth to make the floor of the house. Back breaking to say the least. Patrick (an Irishman) was like the energiser bunny once he got a pick axe in his hand. A Hoe actually but he swung it like a pick. The family are still as hospitable as ever with tea and rice cakes (like rice pudding pressed into a cake) but you eat them with chilli. That wakes the taste buds up. 

The house is rising fast. It is only two rooms and will have a tin roof but compared to the conditions the family live in at the moment it's a palace. The current house is bamboo covered with baked mud and a roof of banana leaves. The roof needs replacing every year and the house every two to three depending on how it stands up to the monsoons. They have very little in the way of creature comforts. A mud floor with a mud stove. One bed and a tin wardrobe (a luxury). No electric or running water. They fill up a water but behind the house when the irrigation hoses are flowing. Failing that they have to go elsewhere and bring it back in containers. Not sure where they go to get it but it must be hard work carrying it back.

  

Lunch today was as good as ever. I had grilled fish with bread plant curry and I went back for more. I only had a slice of French toast for breakfast as I can't keep up with all the food on offer. 

Tonight when we walked back to the bus. The other group appeared from the other direction. when they got to the road we saw they were being escorted by at least twenty kids. Road races began and loads of picture taking. When you take the picture you have to show them the back of the camera so they can see it, wondrous. 

  

Got to go for the cooking demo now so will catch up later. The chef at the village is letting us into his kitchen to show us how it's done.

I'm back. Its 23.50 the cooking demo was good, not fantastic but good. More fun than instructive. The Americans don't have many East Indian restaurants, unlike the UK with one on every corner. I did manage to burn my hand on the curry the chef produced. I'm screaming it's hot and the others are saying "spicy" no HOT, is that the chillies in it, no it burns. even though I'm running cold water over my hands they still don't get it. . 

Dinner was good. I think I have already said I prefer the lunch menu. after Miriam (our leader) had done her meeting bit and bored the pants of everybody (it was funny though) we adjourned to the terrace. with the last bottle of beer gone we had to raid John's duty free scotch. 

Today's personality is Jennifer. American from Houston. She is 22. I have never ,met such an animated hyperactive person. When she talks its like a barrage from a Gatling gun. Every muscle in her face is twitching, her hands are gesticulating, her speech is sort of erratic. I can't begin to describe her, I may have to take a video clip at some time. For all that she is such fun and great to be around. She certainly keeps the spirits high. 

We finish work a bit early tomorrow so that we can visit each others project as they are not all in the same location. That will be interesting. 

For now It's sleep time. Made better by the fact that I put two mattresses on the bed. 

Day Six

Well here we are at the end of day six. Hope you didn't worry about the bomb news. It was big over here, even in the jungle. About 64 dead. We are so far into the jungle I don't know how our driver ever finds the work sites. So I'm sure we are safe.**

**This was when the Tamil Tigers blew up a bus and killed about 64 people. They also started to attack Colombo and the navy blew up one of the Tamil gun boats of Negumbo Beach. It was the start of the final uprising. All HfH projects stopped for a couple of years after this, only restarting in 2011.

Today I was a scaffolder and labourer. Scaffold consists of bamboo poles freshly cut from the jungle, stuck into holes I dug with a steel bar and a coconut shell. Then more bamboo tied with string and resting on the wall we had already build. 

  

We also went further into the jungle and to other houses to collect stone that was left from their build. I have a picture of the tractor (I use that word lightly) that we rode on. As a joke the driver ran us through the vegetation so that I got whipped by the branches. I was trying to snooze on the pile of stone we had collected at the time. He was only a school kid, they let anyone drive out here. Great kid though, we got on really well.

  

We left site early so as to visit other homes and families who are either in the scheme or about to enter it. They are currently living in mud huts as is the family Patrick and I are building for. I have pictures that you just would not believe. We are also ambassadors for Global Village as our presence enforces the commitment by HFH to work with these people. The more villagers that see us and see what we are doing, helps them believe in the project and more are joining the scheme all the time. It also gives them confidence in building their own homes with the support of HFH.

   

We also visited some homes that Habitat completed a few years ago. The families are so welcoming, so proud of their home. It is a great honour to be invited into a Sri Lanken home and they just loved to talk about how it had changed their lives (through an interpreter of course.) Some have even built extensions onto the original Habitat construction. It certainly has improved the quality of life of the owners of these properties.

  

The scheme Habitat run here is different to Portugal and every thing I have explained previously about the way they work. Here the families have to save in a scheme before they have the house built. That way there is no mortgage at the end because they already own the land, We build next to their mud homes on their farms. It takes about 4 years in the scheme before they have enough to pay for the house. With about twelve members in a group. Each family saves about 15 cents (USD) per day for six months. During this time , home-owners also collect rocks and sand both freely available throughout the countryside and make their own bricks. At the end of the six months, the group's savings are sufficient to build one house, consisting of a single room with an attached kitchen (not as you and I know the term) and bathroom (again nothing like you can imagine as there is no plumbing or electric). Within 27 months all twelve families complete their houses. If they choose to continue with the save and build program, the families can add an additional room to their house by beginning the savings and brick making process again.

The fact that we are here and visible in the community encourages other families to join the scheme and improve their lives. So we are not only builders of homes but are an encouragement to others, visible proof that the scheme works. 

We found an Internet cafe in the town. But there it is only dial up and I could not access an e-mail account that I could use. I didn't have my lap top with me as we only went in for beer. After speaking to the owner it would appear that I may be able to connect the lap top to the dial up network and send these emails.

Day Seven

Today we constructed the ring beam that ties the house together around the roof line. Sounds technical doesn't it. It's not, although in the UK it would be, as it would be over engineered and over priced. 

Here we used old timber, tie wire and bamboo, stuffing any gaps with mud or wet cement bag. Most of the day was spent mixing and pouring concrete (not as we know it) into the shuttering. 

Another hot humid and hard day. but at least tomorrow is an R & R day Sunday. Although we have to get up earlier than normal so as to get in everything the affiliate has planned. 

Whilst we are off having fun the new owners of the house will be trekking up to the mountains to cut timber for the roof trusses. You need a permit to cut timber here but they are sneaking in during the night to cut down a coconut tree.

Day Eight

R&R day today, early start as we needed to get to Sigrea before the crowds. An old temple with over a thousand three hundred steps to the top. The view was worth the effort and the guide was very good. Then lunch and on to the elephant safari. That was brilliant. 

Standing in the back of a Landrover ( 2 for the whole group) we set out through the national park in search of elephants. We eventually found them and took the obligatory photographs. On the way we came across water buffalo, eagles, tortoise and much more.

 We went further into the jungle to locate more elephants, which we did, after which we turned for home. On the way back we came out of a bend in the road to be confronted by a bull elephant. The driver headed off the road into the undergrowth thinking the whole pack was on the road, It wasn't, it was in front of us as we exited the bush. After some nifty manoeuvring we were back on the road home. 

A bit further down the track we rounded a bend (quite fast) to be confronted with another Land Rover bearing down on us from the opposite direction. Both drivers took evasive action and we nearly rolled over onto the bush. The front of our vehicle just clipped the rear side of the other one. Not too much damage done and no one hurt. We carried on and eventually made our way out of the jungle and home. 

Back to work tomorrow, must get this house finished for the dedication at the end of the week. 

Day Nine

I don't know where to start. The owner of the village in which we are staying arranged for us to be transported to the work sites by tuc tuc. This is the local 3 wheel vehicle that replaced the old rickshaw. It was manic. There was 6 tuc tuc's racing down an unmade road at break neck speed. We also took a look at one of the other builds, as yet we have not seen any other site. 

  

The morning was hot and hard. It's difficult to work when you are soaking wet from the minute you leave the air con of the room. The daughter in-law of the owner of the property Patrick and I are working on, also wife of Buddika the guy we are working with. Likes me in her country, This is a great honour, I think it's is because I save on scaffold costs. 

In the afternoon James joined us. A 21 year old army student from the USA. So far he has been very quiet. Eats a lot but seems very distant from the group. That is until after dinner when we played this game called MAFIA. Some people played it the other night ( I opted out, well you know me and games). Tonight I was drafted in to it. It was and is a great game, I only hope I can remember the rules. Any number of players. News years eve I have my game. 

I can't put into words the feelings I have about this trip. The country, the people, the culture. The friendships forged here will be with me for a long time. These people are so welcoming, humble and gracious that it makes the western world seem even more materialistic than I envisaged. 

As for today's personality, it has to be James. First impressions were that this guy was a bit of a mummies boy. 21 in military college, doesn't say much but eats for the USA. not a lot of him, fit kind of guy. Not a conversationalist. That was until he introduced us to "MAFIA" Now he is focused, vocal, in control and definitely officer material.

As for the work sit, we are nearly finished on this house. The only problem was a hornet attack after I disturbed their nest. This was not intentional. I just moved some of the roof covering so as to make an accessible path. They attacked in great numbers. We all ran for jungle cover. The funniest thing was to see Buddika try and hit the nest with a stick and run away, I wish I had a video running at the time. 

We eventually smoked them out so that we could carry on working, not without nearly burning down the original mud home that was to be the owners home for a few more days. 

Day Ten

This morning we visited the local village school. After a speech from the principal all the kids were assembled in the hall (space with a roof) and performed a couple of songs and dances for us. 

I remember when I was at school we had to go to assembly and listen to visiting dignitaries who were on the stage. Strange feeling being the one on stage. 

Then it was off to the work sites for the day. We are now up to roof height and are installing the timber that will support the tin sheets. James joined us on site again and helped Patrick dig the toilet. A hole 2 metres diameter by at least 2.5 metres deep. 

The timber for the roof was that cut down by Budikka and friends. A villager turned up with a chain saw and proceeded to cut the tree into lengths of 4 x 2 just by using the chain saw. Absolutely amazing. I'm surprised the guy has any toes left let alone legs. "Health and safety" I don't think so.

After dinner we went back to the site which had been prepared for a cultural exchange evening. Talk about feel like royalty. We all sat in specially built and decorated shelter whilst speeches and dances were performed. All the local dignitaries were there including the wise man. It was just so special. Music and dances carried on for some time. Again this was reality. not a tourist attraction. This is the real people doing what they do on special occasions. Just so moving.

  

I have had to download the pictures from the camera just to free up space. I can't believe I have taken so many. 

Tomorrow is another day on site and as it's now 1,30 am. Some of us stayed up for a drink when we got back to the village. I had better get some sleep. 

Day Eleven

Today started with the monsoon coming in. Certainly not cold but very wet. The rain stopped and started frequently. Every time it started the locals ran for shelter and put on hats and coats. It was hilarious. They couldn't understand why we carried on working. 

Patrick and James went back to their hole. They are so proud of it and rightly so. I did a little landscaping and clearing up of the front yard ready for the dedication tomorrow afternoon. Then it was down to fixing the roof and mixing concrete for the floor. The day just whizzed past. 

I am still amazed at the resilience of these people. They are so hospitable and friendly. Nothing is too much trouble for them. Today we had a disgusting looking green drink for morning tea break. And I mean green, bright green. But when I tasted it, it was fine. When I asked what it was they disappeared into the jungle and came back with a plant. Still don't know what it was but apparently it is good for the blood. 

The biggest shock of the day was to find out how old the old boy who I have been working with is. We placed him at about 65 to 70. He is 51. I think I started to get a little respect from him once he found out I was older than him. He still has my respect, if I had to work as hard as he has throughout his life I would probably look about 170. 

Night in tonight. I have just got washed and changed ready for dinner. We only have one more day here and then we move on to a tea plantation for Friday night. Saturday back to Negumbo / Colombo where we started this wonderful experience. 

I shall miss the people here, I feel that I have grown attached to them, far more than in Portugal. They are such genuine people, friendly and full of life, hard life, but life. They are a proud people and I am pleased to have known them and worked alongside them. 

Day Twelve

It's a sad day, it's our last on site. The people here have been just amazing. I spent my last morning down the hole. The house is finished and the family are getting it ready for dedication. There are the three of us finishing off the toilet. 8Ft deep and 6Ft diameter now. I spent two hours down there, sweat pouring off me but the determination to finish was great. 

  

At lunch time we went back to our village to wash up and change for the dedication in the afternoon. 

When we returned to the work village, emotions were running very close to the surface. There was a lot of tears from the home owners as well as some of the volunteers. We had built up such a bond with our respective owners that it was heart wrenching to say goodbye knowing that we would wake up in a hotel in the morning with a long homeward journey in front of us. The home owners would awake to their usual routine of hard work and little reward. 

During the dedication the monsoon struck again and we all had to rush into the house for protection from the storm. It was over in a short while but I was pleased we had completed the first part of the ceremony by cutting the ribbon on the door. The home owners had asked for the three of us to cut the ribbon, I can't explain how it felt to be given such an honour from such humble people. The memory will stay with me for ever. 

  

Buddika's wife ( I never did get to know her name) broke down in tears when it was time for us to leave. Such emotional scenes I will never forget. 

The evening was spent on our village over dinner and a local band drafted in by the director of the local affiliate. (not so hot) springs to mind when thinking of words to describe them. It was a little out of place and we were all drained from the days experience. But a lovely thought by the director who wanted to say thanks and throw a little party for us.

Tomorrow we leave for home via a nights stop over in Kandy (second capitol of Sri Lanka). I think I will sleep well tonight. 

Day Thirteen

Not much to say about today other than it has been hot and we have been travelling for hours. Found a great hotel for lunch, unfortunately it's not the one we are staying in tonight. Went back there for a drink this evening, real chill out time. Still missing the families and the work site. The group was very quiet today. 

Day Fourteen

Again we were travelling all day with a couple of stops for lunch and to visit an elephant prison, Sorry, orphanage. Chained up elephants is not my thing so a couple of us went and found a bar by the river. it was not long before the place was swarming with about 30 elephants of all sizes making their way into the river. Mostly unchained and free to roam, tame all the same. Even a three legged elephant (not sure about it's quality of life)

We finally made it to the hotel in Nagumbo from where I will leave for the airport tomorrow. We had final meeting to wrap up the trip and say a few goodbyes. Not only to each other as some are leaving early in the morning, but to our driver and Francis the local affiliate who has been marvellous in arranging everything from R&R to work on site. 

I would have to say that although I have enjoyed the company of the other team members, I have not spent enough time with some of them to get to know them as we were all on different builds. I did get to know a bit about Sue, who has lived for a year in Sri Lanka working at an orphanage (not elephants). It was she who found the bar when we were escaping the elephant orphanage. And of course Patrick.

Most of the team are down by the pool playing Mafia at the moment. But I have a stinking cold. I new I was in for this as soon as I arrived on site and worked with the mason who was obviously suffering at the time. I wasn't wrong. It has developed over the last few days. So a stuffed up early night is on the cards.

I have loved every minute of this trip. The people of the country are so warm and friendly. The poverty I have seen has been far in excess of anything I could have ever imagined. I WILL be back hopefully leading a team next year. For now the next stop is Costa Rica in November. No doubt I will feel the same about that country too. We are so Blessed (to use a Terryism) in the west, we just don't know it sometimes.